Flower embroidery

Who does not love embroidery? It is a way to Show your drawing and make it three dimensional, unlike digital print. It is very personal and alai illustrate the hand skill of the embroiderer. Here i want to show you Some samples of embroidery that i made. Can you imagine how it will look like if all of these are in your top or your skirt? You will look ravishing! 

Post-Production 2

There are more experimentations to find the right colours. Sequins sizes and colour are very important to convey the mood of the collection. Thread is also very important.

Post-Production

Before i decided on which way that i should apply the bead, i have to experiment a lot. It is a very complicated process, to find a way for maker to be able to follow my instruction easily. The instruction has to be very clear, so they won't get confused. The pictures below are examples of the experimentation.

The COrydalis

For my end of collection, this year, i have developed a collection "The corydalis". The collection takes inspiration from organic floral and translates this into three dimensional garment interpretations, incorporating contemporary textile manipulations, prints and embroidery. Textile development has been informed by research into traditional use of lace, colour, embroidery and beading during Indonesian Dutch colonization history. An exploration of Indonesian Dutch colonization history has influenced the translation of hand rendered flower illustrations combined with traditional methods of creating the Kebaya, an Indonesian symbolic garment that is made out of lace brocade. The hand beading and stitch-work used within the creation of the traditional Kebaya speaks into the handwork, and care taken into the creation of couture garments within a European perspective. “The Corydalis” aims to marry these two rich traditions to convey a contemporary perspective based on skill and craftsmanship.

I also have a facebook page, JeniKartono and www.jenikartono.com Please have a look, if there is update

Vogue

Vogue has similarity to Harper Bazaar magazine, however, there is slight different target market for the viewer. Mostly it is the same, however vogue is a more 'Fashion' magazines highlighting the runway show and the people with good dresses. Unlike Bazaar that covers some celebrity gossyps and others. Vogue mostly is a very fashion conscious people, the most upcoming trend overseas would definitely appear. The way they put the layout for the viewer is very specific, with the choice of Australian designer, international designer and the model. Moreover, every season is also noted for the people to know what each designer do for every season. The magazine is normally seen with highly visual people, designers, very fashion conscious, interesting ideas, very conceptual.

Media

Harper Bazaar People aged between 18years old-50 years old The people who read bazaar magazines are mostly a very fashion conscious people. They tend to look out what has been happening overseas, for instance the fashion show, backstage of the fashion show, the best dressed of the celebrities etc. They also tend to look out how people dress up, and try to find the trend for themselves. They are people who have a lot of free times. Not necessarily earn a lot of money, however satisfied with what they earn and have different way of spending their money into. They are the one who love to see the gossyp and the news especially for brands, the shop, new model, and what is hot. They love the beauty and process of the production of the garment. The thought behind each garment, they are looking for the values in the garment. The people who read the magazine are also the type who like to know the trend for inspiration of their own business. They tend to find inspiration with the textile print, and shape of the garment. The people are drawn into the world of consumption and branding. They tend to have a want for certain brand. They are very loyal to the brand, keep being up-dated with their new arrivals. They are people who love to look at the fashion to exchange their ideas and opinions with friends, basically for socializing.

Valentino

Valentino has a very intricate designs especially in 2011 collection and 2012 couture. The dresses look very serene especially the playing of the negative space to show the body. Moreover, the positions of flowers are not fully covering the body. Its less flower actually could provide beautiful and elegance effects in its simplistic form.

International brand

DRIES VAN NOTEN Dries Van Noten is one of the leading international brand that focus on the abstract print. Their famous and best seller pieces is the wrapped dress, as it is considered to be comfortable and flattering on the body. They also use beautiful and expensive silk/cotton (natural fibre) to make the customers feel nice on the body. Moreover, Dries Van Noten has long history of the printed garment, it is one of aspects that make the brand to be remembered by people. Sometimes in the modern garment, they could also take the print of 1960s, and being changed (they provide all of the informations in the labeling). They also use standard American sizing. Mostly the customers who purchase the clothing is normally older woman, therefore, the garments sell a lot in size 10 above.

VERSACE Versace has different market, their customers are mostly likely to be European especially Italian. Italian loves to wear colour striking that Versace has. Versace has a distinct colour blocks and prints style. Versace's customers range from 25yrs old-50 years old. Younger women tend to buy their jackets, such as leather.

Local Survey

After doing survey with the person working in Zimmermann. It can be seen that Zimmermann's target market is a little bit different than high branded stuff. Zimmermann has higher price range. ALl of their range of clothing are pretty much very loose, to reflect Australian lifestyle as well as to provide comfort and luxury in the daily life. Zimmermann developes prints in their garment. The printed garments normally come in small quantity, customers would normally purchase a more classic cut and colour, as it is considered to be more long lasting. The customers are smart enough to think to purchase classic rather than fashionable one. Moreover, Zimmermann's best sellers are mostly garments that are more working class woman, it is because the independent business women are the one who could afford to purchase the clothing. Their swimwear collection is also one of the best seller in the innovative approach and print in lycra.

Willow has slightly different market in comparison to Zimmermann. Zimmermann is more into luxury and casual daily lifestyle, as Willow is more corperate with its beautiful armhole in the jacket, as well as dress. Surprisingly, Willow's market age is from 16 years old -40 years old. Sometimes, for high school student, the girls who have rich parents could pay for one of Willow dress for year 10 formal. Moreover, mostly Willow best seller is normally a simple shirting and blouse, dresses and jacket. The loyal customers tend to come every 2 months after they receive the email about Willow's new arrivals and they would purchase everything on the day. Willow provides luxurious lifestyle in the high quality fabric, zippers and beautiful finishing.

PORTFOLIO IDEAS

epicons/15695.jpg" /> I looked through some portfolio ideas. Some portfolio looks good in simple format, it allows the viewer to draw to your drawing and you main point in each page. I love how the image of a bottle to go across the other page, while the other page is a simple writing / story about the collection. There is one image, where it has drape photo and hand illustration along with DDS. I think putting the draping process could give ideas where the idea is coming from.

Embroidery sample

I tried to do embroider sample using domestic machine. By using zigzag, it enables me to draw line, i can also adjust the thickness of the line by making the zigzag bigger and smaller. However, the limitation of using domestic machine is you can not do satin stitches, and small details, it did not work at all. I tried to do the beading as well, however in Sydney, there are not colours and type of the beading that i want. i have to source some overseas.

HAND ILLUSTRATION FLOWERS

For the portfolio, i was thinking whether i should include a lot of drawing that i have drawn for my textile. Moreover, i think most of the collections and designs come from orchid. Therefore, i took orchid images from internet, and tried to illustrate it. This hand illustration of the orchid could be put in the portfolio to give more personal and identity in the collection

Screen Print and Laser cutting

AFter the drawing,i was making laser cut file of the flowers. The laser cut is supposed to have hole to where the shadow of the flowers would go in the drawing. I used metalic fabric and silk satin to experiement with the laser cutting, whether the fabric would be cut beautifully or burnt around the edge. After the laser cutting is done, i tried to do screen print on both fabric. the metalic fabric does not absorb screen print pigment as well as dutchess. Therefore, the fabric looks like it is overpowering the screen printed flower motif. As the silk, due to its white colour and smooth texture, the flower motifs could be seen very clearly from far, which is very lovely. However, i feel like screen print only allows one or two colours which i think it looks very dull. The idea of flowers are to have different colours and the details and serene atmosphere. I was thinking to do two screen print with different colours.

Source: http://thitayaportfolio.blogspot.com.au/2011/03/lay-out.html The layout of the portfolio is very interesting with the different 3 squares that shows different drawing. The use of hand drawing as the cover of the portfolio might be eye catching to draw the viewers what they would be drawn into later.

LAYOUT

I love the layout of the cover of the book. The drawing that is divided into 4 square section. The range drawing is also really nice with different way of figure drawing. Maybe at this time i could not do different fgure drawing due to the application of the flower into the drawing. If i have more time next semester i should develop more figure drawing, and play them around to make the portfolio look much more cooler.

COLOUR WORKSHOP

The colours workshop, is the moment where we experimented with different colours through mixture of different colour of Star Dyes. We use some natural fibres so it is easier for the fabric to absorb colours more. I use mostly silk since i am going to use silk for my collection. The dye bath normally has thicker colours, however after you iron the silk to dry the fabric faster, it goes really pale, which what i love. I am looking for more pale colours. I want to do spring/summer transition. I want some pastel fabric yet it is not a bright colour, i want the colours that express organic and traditional aspect of Batik. I love the colours of 'Khaki", and "Mouse Grey" the best because it has the intricate and pastel colours that i love.

BATIK PEKALONGAN COLOUR INSPIRATION

FOr my colour inspiration, i looked through Batik to give me some ideas. I love the organic or the natural dye colours that are in Batik. Batik used a lot of indigo colours. Indigo is a very traditional and basic colour that originally the colour of Batik it is first made with. Moreover, after the introduction of synthetic dye, more beautiful pastel colours appear as it can be seen from the pictures. There is a beauty in the pastel colours that are not presenting sweet and pure image.

Amelia Agosta AW 2012

Amelia Agosta Fall/winter 2012 The work by Amelia Agosta in sculptural pieces are able to reflect the extension of the body. Her styles such as sculptural, and avant garde are able to create modern form through knit, stretch, woven and contemporary non woven fabric. Intricate pattern making mixed with traditional tailoring techniques push boundaries of fashion, especially the blending technique with the Industrial machine used, such as 3D body scanning and 3D printing. The fabrications varying from traditional fabrics like wool and silk organza’s to contemporary materials and non-woven textiles such as double interfacing, neoprene and 3D printed nylon are able to encapsulate the futuristic look.

Me & Oli

Me & Oli is the new emerging designer brand, that incorperate the textile print throughout the garments. Lalila Lu, the designer, with the knowledge of graphic design, she is able to to translate her Childhood memory, feminine aesthetic and creative approach through the print as well as the making of the website. The website has a very creative approach for the viewer to look at the garment, the playfulness is the element that she wants to reflect to her designs as well. Her hand drawing ability is very intricate that could be seen in the photoshoot of her garment. The portrayal of the garment with the hand drawn elements are unique and very nostalgic.

Marnie Skillings

Marnie Skillings is the brand that i used to do intern.

Zimmermann

Summer 2012 Zimmermann is the brand that i took for the jacket analysis in my research. it is a label of Australia that comprises of range of swimwear, and fashion.I love zimmermann with the clever engineering of the lace work to the garment. Zimmermann also has certain style that is relaxing, and feminine, through the flower digital printing, low armhole and the sheer loose fabric that sweep the floor.

WILLOW

I chose WILLOW for my Branding report, Willow brand has an amazing style that is really feminine and edgy. Starting from lingerie industry, it gradually becomes top 10 Australian designer in the fashion and lingerie section. Willow's edginess are shown in corperating riri zipper with chain, and the fabrications used for example laser cut leather, the corperation with the accessories with the fabric. The combination of the solid and sheer to hug the body add the feminine touch. Willow also uses all high class material in regards to the fabric, garment finishing, lining and trims. The dress and jacket are beautifully finished, with all the seam covered and pressed open. No overlocking seen. the hem is all covered perfectly with the facing. The fabrics have range materials from Italy, France, and China. The zipper used is riri which is the best zipper, the small teeth in zipper to add delicacy in the garment.

Photoshop for Design

From the drape workshop, i took photos of several garments that have interesting features. The features are being cut and played in photoshop to achieve beautiful design. THe results are amazing. THis techniques in Photoshop enable you to produce design that is very innovative. You can play with the scale, and shape using warping. You can also do repetition just by cut and paste. After you create half, you basically copy and mirror so you can achive the symmetry in the garment. I used a lot of photoshop to produce my designs for my collection. The pictures that i posted is just the start, i have to keep pushing more ideas and develop more.

SAMPLE BEADING

After i draw a lot of flowers from the photographs that i took. I have to think how to translate all the drawings onto the fabric. Firstly, i looked at the lace that i got, looking through how the kebaya is normally beaded, i tried one sample as seen above. The traditional Kebaya normally plays with a lot of contrast colours, and i want to bring it more delicate and elegance by playing the tone colour. AFter i finished beading, i was experimenting laser cutting flower motif. Laser cutting is a technique to create embellishment on the fabric. It is also a nice translation from traditional aspect of Kebaya embroidery to modern approach. Here, i layered laser cut flower fabric on top of the beading that i did, the result looks amazing. The lace with the metalic fabric are shining together. However, to apply this technique on the garment, it could be overpowering due to the metallic and shine each fabric has.

FLOWER HAND DRAWING

From the trip to Canbera during Flower festival, i went to the festival and the small miniature building place where i took photos of flwowers. It is then i realised i could use those photos for my collection. More than that, apart from the photos taken from Canbera, i collected some photos of the flowers that i would not be able to take the photos of. For the drawing, I was having fun drawing flowers in different scales. Also, i think by focusing on the details of flower in the petal, it can then highlight the beauty of flowers. IF you look at the flower closely, each flower has tiny veins in the petal, it can also be seen in the centre of the flower. The experience of expressing what the serenity and tranquility through walking in the garden is what i want to express in my collection. Through drawing of flowers and playing in the composition, the flowers can look alive and real. THe bigger and more beautiful flowers are the one that i put forward to emphasize on what the people would see it first, while the small flowers provide details and intricacy to reinforce the big flowers.